Walking with the Trekker

Caprock Canyon State Park: Quitaque,TX
October 8-10, 1999

By Darwin White

This will have to go down as one of the better walking trips that I have had the fortune to be on. Brandon, his friend, Daniel, and I took off from work and school to go participate in the West Texas Trail Walkers annual trip to wild and walkable parts of Texas over each Columbus Day weekend.

I picked the boys up in Burkburnett TX, as soon as their football game had concluded and we headed west, watching the distant lightening storms and stopping once in Quanah,TX to see how their JV was doing. It was midnight by the time we reached Caprock Canyons State Park and set up temporary camp.

I was up early Friday, listening to the yipping of coyotes and watching the dawning. On my drive to sign in with the park rangers I was treated to a fantastic view of redrock canyons up close and towering red bluffs across the park that we had not been able to see in the dark.

We spent the remainder of the morning tracking down a good, hot breakfast and driving around the county. We had plenty of time to kill, since the start of today's walk wouldn't be until 2:00pm. This year we would be assembling at the Hotel Turkey, in Turkey TX (home of Bob Wills) for a Friday afternoon exploration of a rails-to-trails conversion.

Once signed in, we waited for one of the two shuttles driven by Jim Ross and John Ferguson to carry us out to the start point at one of the many access points on the Rail Trail. When they had enough for a trip we headed east for a few miles and were dropped off at a narrow red dirt lane.

There were about fifteen of us in this group and we headed down the road, gradually breaking into smaller groups and pairs. The walking was nice here, a good steady breeze blowing, soft red dirt underfoot and little rainshowers around us and in the distance, but only a few scattered drops near us.

After about a mile we came to the actual trail and were directed west back towards Turkey. The trail was level and the sound of cinders scrunching underfoot was pleasant as we made our way along this straight and weedy path.

As with most rail trails, this one was straight and had only slight grades, making for easy walking and a good chance to look around. Om the east we had a narrow strip of pasture, inhabited mostly by scattered mesquites and a few beef cattle. To the west were hay and cotton fields and even a couple of wide bands planted with pumpkins.

We passed through several cut hills and over a few bridges. At one overpass we saw several mud nests that looked like they had been made by wasps the size of blue jays. Luckily someone told me they were actually swallows nests. Other than that there was little of interest. The boys were busy picking up old rail spikes and other bits of metal. By the time we finished this 10K trail they had a good bit of junk and pretty rocks to take home with them.

After the 10K we went and set up camp with Margaret Kelcey and her son, Kevin. For a nights finale we went to the local gridiron and watched the home Valley High Patriots whip up on the Motley County Matadors 26-19 in class A football.

The next morning we woke to chilly temps, a steady breeze and the prospect of walking the South Canyon Trail. There were options of doing an easy 10k or a much harder 12K or 22K rated at 4.5. We opted to do the 22K.

The first portion of this trail led off eastwards across a gently rolling bit of brushy scrub, then passed through the Little Red Tent Campground to a trailhead leading down to the South Prong of the Little Red River. Going here became rougher as we made short drops on the descent to the river bottom.

Once on the bottom the going was better, although walking on the sandier sections was a drag. But I really thought this part of the route was the best. We had towering red cliffs on either side of us. The riverbed wound back and forth between these, with occasional islands of grass and trees. The cliffs were striped in layers and while red was predominant most layers were seperated by an inch wide band of pink calcite. We were also walking on this stuff in sections.

There was just a narrow strip of water and we could see the tracks of mule deer and other wildlife as we wandered along. Walking in here you come to realize the meaning of the word small. After a mile or so we began to take actual trails that cut across some of the loops of the river and soon found ourselves on the road to the South Prong Primitive Area.

I stopped to take pictures with the Chuck and Elaine Samus and then we were off down the trail, headed deep into the canyon along a wide mown path. The trail was through a grassy area that was more or less straight , cutting across loops of the streambed and beginning to steadily rise up towards the base of the cliffs. After a while we came to a turning of the trail and found a worker directing us up the side of the cliff.

This was, by far, the hardest section of trail I have ever traversed. It was 600 feet as near to straight up as possible. I ended up having to stow my camera and make use of both hands to pull myself up. There were several other walkers on this section and we took turns passing each other and helping on difficult parts. I think the worst part was that the trail wasn't really clear and there were dozens of different ways to go. It looked like all of them had been used.

Still, I made it to the top and was elated at having passed the only real challenge of the walk. On top the going was much easier, with a narrow dirt trail winding in between scattered cedars and affording great views of the north rim. I walked along this, dodging the cactus and the myriad little bushes that kept making me wish I hadn't worn shorts.

Finally found the checkpoint and discovered that the boys had left my startcard here , in case I wanted to do the shorter trail. What a taunt that was! So now I had no choice but to do the 22K. This was really just a loop off the 12K, a two mile jaunt across the top of the mesa to the Haynes Ridge Scenic Overlook and back to the checkpoint. This was really quite pleasant.

The trail was good and I had benefit of being high up in the breeze. There were just enough trees to provies shade in good measure and I was fascinated by the remnants of old cattle pens and loading chutes I could see along the way. I began meeting other hikers who had already been to the overlook. Got some really nice comments about my boys from them and was told how helpful they had been to Eileen Foghino on that rough climb.

I ran across the boys a couple of hundred yards short of the overlook. They were in high spirits and seemed to be having a great time. We made arrangements for them to wait for me at the Fern Grotto and I made my way out to the overlook. This was a jutting promontory of rock with straight dropoffs on three sides and a commanding view of the area, a small tree and a couple of bushes for shade, and a low bench.

Gail Basham was there, as was Barbara Christopher. I had my lunch there, sitting on the bench between them. I had brought an MRE and Barbara kept trying to tempt me with a salami sandwich. The views were really nice here and I took pictures of some of the hikers against that backdrop. Also had a pleasant conversation with Ed Breutsch and Gordon Albritton.

After lunch I headed back towards the checkpoint , making good time now that I was rested and fed. At the checkpoint I ran into the sweep team of John Ferguson and Jerry Stovall. John had me check my pack and then loaded me back up with water (less for him to carry).

After the checkpoint there was a short bit of trail leading to the point where we had to get down off the mesa. This was worse than the climb up. For some reason gravity has a much more hazardous efect on large, heavy masses moving downward. I did quite a bit of sliding and praying.

About halfway down I could see the boys sitting on a large slab of rock outside the Fern Grotto. When I reached bottom there was a short option to go down and look at the fern up close, but I didn't want to waste the energy. So yelled for the boys to come on and finished the last bit of incline.

From there the trail was much the same as the one leading in only narrower and with more tree limbs to duck and rocks to hop. The further out I went the wider the canyon became and the more windy the trail. Eventually we reached a point where the cliffs were distant and we were on a sort of plain with low hills all around.

The trail also changed here. Where it had before been mostly narrow singletrack, it was now much wider and there were indications that it had been graded. Plenty of horse tracks here and we also began to encounter mountain bikers and a few scattered hikers that were not part of our walk.

We kept plugging along, watching the ridgetop, trying to figure out where exactly the overlook we had been on was. We knew that if we could see it we shouldn't be too far from the finish. This was really an exercise in futility. In the clear air reckoning distances was a dicey proposition at best, and orienting yourself to what you had seen from higher up nearly impossible.

So, as the temperatures began climbing in earnest, and our water slowly ran out, we passed one false hope after another, climbing one seeming last ridge, only to find another ridge or another climb. It was a real lift when we ran across the last pair of workers and were told we were only thirty minutes out from the finish.

We hobbled in to the finish point tired, dusty and ready for a nice long rest. After a quick drive into Quitaque for ice, we hit the showers and then were treated to chair massages by Margaret. That was enough to nearly put me to sleep. I stayed up long enough to watch the boys grill bratwursts and bake beans for dinner and then relax in a soft chair while they tried to burn the place down.

One lesson I learned from all this is that, when camping with teenagers, it is necessary to bring something for them to do. Otherwise you'll end up listening to them whine, or plot your demise or try to entertain themselves in ways that usually result in disciplinary action. With that in mind, I was almost happy when the skunk showed up to provide a much needed distraction.

Sunday's walk was another set of choices. Since I was in pain from aching little toes, I opted to do the shorter 10K trail. Of course the boys wanted to go long so they were off for the 20K. Startpoint was at the restroom facility in the Honey Flat camping area. both routes sent us northwards along the park road.

There was a long string of walkers and we passed a few, taking advantage of the wind at our backs and the steady drop of the road as it led us towards the Equestrian Campgrounds. Dr. Bill, of San Antonio was there, directing us down the dirt road leading to the horse pens.

Passing through here, there were several folks out tending their stock, along with a small band of children who were very excited to see all the hikers passing through. The equestrian trailhead was merely a gap in the fencing leading onto a rather narrow dirt path and past a creaking, old windmill.

The morning was still cool and we were making good time as the trail wound through fields of broom weed, interspersed with cactus and some low evergreen bushes with sharp spines hidden under the foliage. We were gradually descending into a valley filled with red dirt and mesquite.

About a mile in we came to a checkpoint. Gordon Albritton was punching cards and directing the split of the two routes with the help of another WTTW member. When Gordon greeted me by name, the other fellow came up and introduced himself. So I have now met Doyle Piland, one of Wendy's web helpers and a fellow Walklister.

That done I headed off east along the trail, walking with a couple from Houston. The path was pretty much straight through the weeds and scrub with occasional breaks into the open as we dipped down into a meandering creekbed and then crossed to the next loop.

I let the older couple set the pace for me, stopping when they stopped and taking pictures as we trudged along. This probably saved me from injuring my already aching legs any further, since they were in no hurry and we soon became engaged in a pleasant chat.

After a bit we began climbing perceptibly, long upswings with flats or short drops in between. whenever we would think we had reached the top we would usually find another stretch to deal with. When we did reach the top there were some great views down into the canyon and back down the trail.

The top also provided a significant change. The trail was more winding, there was short bermuda grass along the way and the mesquite was thicker. I began to walk a little faster now, ready to be finished, and soon left my walking companions behind

By myself, I began noticing the grey grasshoppers all around. When they would take off their wings would make a rattling sound, almost like firecrackers in rapid succession; and their wings were bright red with black markings, much like a monarch butterfly. I could also here geese honking and tried to spot them but only saw two pairs passing on either side of me.

About 2k from the finish I was passed up by Leroy Wright, walking awful fast and not slowing up for anything. It wasn't long after that that I realized I was further along the trail than I had thought. I could hear voices from the campground and was soon back on the road with only about a hundred yards to the finish. I spent the rest of the day relaxing in the shade while waiting for the boys to finish with the 20K.

As usual, the West Texas Trail Walkers put on a bang up job of an event. We had a great time, got to walk and talk with several wonderful people. The weather was nearly perfect and the trails exceptional. Can't wait for next years events, which I hear will be in the Davis Mountains

Trail Happy,
Darwin L. White
The Dallas Trekkers Walking Club
"I want to learn the ways of Eyeveevee and become a volkssporter like my father." Luke Skywalker(Mark Hamill) to Obi-wan Kenobi in 'Star Wars'(1977)

Area Walking and More Information

Texas Volkssport Association walking clubs and events
Upcoming walking events in Texas
Volksmarch and Walking Index Web page
Texas for Visitors
About.com Downtown Dallas
Southwest US for Visitors

More Walking With the Trekker and the Walrus:

Caprock Canyons State Park, Texas Oct. 8-10, 1999. Photos
Sister Grove Park, Princeton, Texas 9/25/99
Cooper Lake State Park Walk, Texas 9/16/99

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