Walking Through Scotland

More of this Feature • 1999 through Scotland  • 2000 days 1-3   • 2000 days 4-6   • 2000 days 7-8   • Phase 3 of the Walk: 2001 • Phase 4 of the Walk: 2002    Related Resources • Long Distance Walking  • Britain Photo Clipart    From Other Guides • UK for Visitors

Our correspondant Alan Cook enjoys long distance walking, having previously walked from Los Angeles to Denver and written the fictional Walking to Denver.   Now he will walk from one of the northernmost points in the United Kingdom, John O'Groats Scotland, to the southern tip at Land's End, England.

by Alan Cook
I accomplished the first phase of my UK walk, John O'Groats to Land's End (JOGLE) walk from July 3 - 13. I walked from John O'Groats to Balloch, at the south end of Loch Lomond, 274 miles in 11 days. My patient wife, Bonny, supported me by driving a rental car on the left side of the road for the first time.
These are the ground rules for the walk:
1. (Bonny's rule) She must be able to find me at all times.
In other words, I have to stay on roads.
2. I can walk in either direction.
3. I can walk the various segments of the walk in any sequence.
Rules 2 and 3 are necessary to give me any hope of completing the walk, as I will have to be opportunistic since I live in California.

For the route I am indebted to Noel Blackham, author of "One Man and His Dog Go Walkies," who made the walk in 1988. I found valuable information in "I Walked From Land's End to John O'Groats," by Krister Andren, who also went by road in 1996.   Map of Scotland.

Following is a day by day account:

SAT., JULY 3; WICK TO JOHN O'GROATS (south to north) on A99--17 miles. The day is cool and dreary with some wind and sprinkles. I am still jet-lagged and wait for my endorphins to kick in--and wait. Farm land, some cows, more sheep. Sheep are painted on the side with the owners' colors. Some heather-covered moor. Not many people. We take pictures at John O'Groats Hotel, my official starting place. Stay at Mackay's (Mack-eyes) Hotel in Wick.
 

SUN., JULY 4; WICK TO BARRIEDALE (south) on A99 and A9--26 miles. The weather is "miserable," to quote the BBC. It never stops raining. Thank goodness for my North Face rain top. I also wear rain pants and rain gloves, but my feet remain wet, even after changing shoes and socks. The only good news is a tailwind. Spectacular green hillsides, and cliffs plunging to the North Sea. Stay at a B&B in Helmsdale.

MON., JULY 5; BARRIEDALE TO DUNROBIN CASTLE, SOUTH OF BRORA, on A9--26 miles. Fog and rain; I wear reflective spots, fearful that cars won't see me. Lots of ups and downs early--13% grades. Reminiscent of the Big Sur on the California coast. At Helmsdale the road falls to the water. I am heard to say, "Tell me again why people like to visit here." B&B in Brora.

TUES., JULY 6; DUNROBIN CASTLE TO NEAR ALNESS on A9 and local roads--26 miles. Rain stops but low clouds remain. Cow jam on A9 stops traffic. Bridge over Dornoch Firth, dedicated in 1991 by the Queen Mum, saves me precious distance. Noel Blackham had to walk around the firth in 1988. I take a local road from Tain to Alness, getting away from the traffic. Favorite Scottish saying: "If it isn't raining now, it will rain soon," but they optimistically leave their clothes out on the line in the rain. Evergreen trees, in addition to moors and farmland. Looks a lot like New York State. The sun rises soon after 4 a.m. and sets after 10 p.m., but we never see it. Stay at small hotel in Alness.

WED., JULY 7; NEAR ALNESS TO BEAULY on local roads, B817 (through Alness), A9, A862--26 miles. Sun almost comes out and it is T-shirt weather for the first time. I walk on the right side of the road, facing traffic. If there is a sidewalk (foot path) I use it. The extra two feet it gives me makes an enormous difference in my stress level as I can almost ignore traffic altogether on a foot path. Usual case, where I have to walk on the white line marking the edge of the narrow road, I look every vehicle past me to make sure it is giving me enough room. After a vehicle passes I invoke the 10-second rule: While the noise still drowns out that of other approaching vehicles, I assume they are coming in both lanes, especially from behind. That way I don't get careless and stroll out into the road. Scariest is vehicle passing another from behind me. I don't like drivers who risk my life to save a few seconds. B&B in Beauly.

THUR., JULY 8; BEAULY TO NEAR INVERMORISTON on A862, A833, A831, A82--24 miles. Some rain in late a.m. going through the hills north of Drumnadrochit, but then sunny and warm. Fourteen percent downgrade to Loch Ness, where I join A82. I walk along the north shore of Loch Ness, but there are not enough view points of the beautiful loch, the largest and deepest in Scotland. Also no sign of the monster. B&B in Invermoriston.

FRI., JULY 9; NEAR INVERMORISTON TO PAST INVERGARRY (southwest) on A82--21 miles. I wear shorts for the first time. Warm and sunny all day. Two hour pit stop in Fort Augustus as the electronic windows in the car go out. Avis sends a British AA technician from Inverness, but he can't fix the problem. He does get the front windows up (rear windows are manual). Now I know why I've never purchased a car with electronic windows. From Loch Lochy I have impressive views of the Ben Nevis range. Ben Nevis, at 4406 feet, is the highest peak in the UK, and has snow on it. The legend says that when the snow melts Scotland will be independent. Some heather has started to bloom--small, delicate, purple flowers. Whole hillsides will burst into bloom in August. Official flower of Scotland is the thistle--also purple--but don't touch! All the B&B's we have stayed at have been clean, nicely furnished, some newly remodeled, especially bathrooms. Owners are friendly, helpful. Scottish breakfasts (toast, eggs, sausage, bacon--our ham, tomato, sometimes black pudding) are filling. Also get orange juice and tea or coffee. B&B in Spean Bridge.

SAT., JULY 10; PAST INVERGARRY TO PAST FORT WILLIAM on A82--26 miles. It rains a couple of times, is cloudy the rest. Ben Nevis range lost in clouds. I walk right along the shore of Loch Lochy, with impressive hills behind it (opposite direction from Ben Nevis). Fort William is largest town we have been in so far I have crossed over from the east to the west side of Scotland. B&B in Fort William.

SUN., JULY 11; PAST FORT WILLIAM TO RANNOCH MOOR SUMMIT on A82--26 miles. At 1141 feet, Rannoch Moor Summit is the highest point on this part of the walk. The road starts to climb past Ballachulish, and goes through Glencoe, scene of historic massacre. Climb up Glencoe pass is steady and goes on for miles, leading me to believe I am higher than I am. Impressive peaks with rocky cliffs on either side. B&B at Achallader, 3 miles north of Bridge of Orchy.

MON., JULY 12; RANNOCH MOOR SUMMIT TO PAST CRIANLARICH on A82--24 miles. It's downhill to Bridge of Orchy and then 4 miles uphill, close to the railroad track and one of Scotland's favorite walking paths, with a host of walkers. Shorts and T-shirt weather, and a thin cloud cover in the p.m. is actually welcome, keeping the temperature bearable. The midges (no-see-ems) come out and we spray ourselves with Off. Bonny is scared out of her wits by a monstrous noise and is sure her car is going to get creamed. It turns out to be the sound of freedom, a jet fighter winding through the pass, which they do frequently. Be warned! B&B in Crianlarich.

TUE., JULY 13; PAST CRIANLARICH TO BALLOCH on A82, A811--32 miles. I walk eight miles before breakfast, starting 6 a.m. at Tarbet south to north along the narrowest part of A82 on the west bank of Loch Lomond, to beat the traffic. Only once do a truck and car pass me simultaneously. I press myself against the stone wall, wishing I were even skinnier than I am. Fortunately, Scottish people sleep in during the summer because it stays light so late. Then I close the gap from Crianlarich south to Loch Lomond, and finish by walking south from Tarbet along the rest of Loch Lomond and then an easy jog east to Balloch. B&B in Balloch.

I look forward to returning to the UK as soon as possible and continuing the walk.

Alan Cook
Rancho Palos Verdes, California

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My review
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Errata:  John o'Groats is NOT the northernmost point of the UK, the Dunnet Head B&B, Tearoom, etc. would like you to know.  Home of Lassie.

photos by Alan Cook