More of this Feature • Part 1: Getting There • Part 2: Day 1 • Part 3: Day 2

Related Resources • International Marching League Events • Christina's '97 Viborg Review • Gary's Ireland Walk • Gary's Luxembourg Review

From Other Guides • Europe for Visitors

Elsewhere on the Web • Hærvejsmarch

Story by Gary Nelson

Denmark has a nature all its own. Clean is the word that comes to mind. Luxembourg was beautiful, but Denmark exudes a fresh sense of nature. We started out walking through the city which was spotless. There was an absence of the people standing and watching the marchers go by. Those that were on the street were going their way and paid little attention to the marchers which attests to the calm nature of the Danes.

The first day's route took us into the hills and much of the route was off road. The nature offered by the walk was wonderful. It is similar to wildlife refuges of the US. Unspoiled other than footsteps. Some of the areas were almost prehistoric. My hat is off to those who worked to preserve these areas. After Luxembourg the going was easy though, even though the trails were rough. I found Eric and Eva (of Holland and Sweden) walking together and took up with them and caught up on happenings. I saw them the previous night going from party to party as they are very popular, and as such didn't get to spend too much time with them. Both are in their respective countries militaries and Eric specializes in unique military assignments (enough said) and we exchanged views on the current state of each other's military.

Eva was content to greet her many, many friends on the route. The number of rest stops is admirable in Denmark. And at each stop there is food and.........beer. I had to refrain from the constant consumption as it doesn't appeal to my digestive tract.

Towards the end of the day I lost Eva and Eric in the forested area and was walking alone when I began passing groups of Danes on the 20 and 30 kilometer pulling wagons of beer and sodas. As we got to the 32-34 kilometer mark, there were a series of bridges alongside the lake that straddles Viborg. And at one of these bridges it was necessary to take a drink in order to pass. I chose a concoction from a plastic soda bottle. It had a licorice taste, very sweet and thick. It also has a kick.

Alongside the lake people were being thrown in. This is a ritual designed for those who are walking for the first time. I made special notice of this custom, having no change of clothes, and wearing a military uniform would have made me stand out all the more. Halfway along the area that straddles the lake I walked past Raoul and his wife, and his niece Louisa. As has happened many times they noticed my uniform and began speaking to me in English. Americans in uniform are rare at these particular marches and interest as to how we got there is high. I explained briefly my history of marching, and we began to establish a rapport almost instantly. I found myself adopted by this family.

Raoul had received support from a local medical firm and he also had the support of a van that met them every 10 kilometers or so.

The Danes are party folk. They simply have a good time. They sang an old rock and roll song, "Hey, hey, baby...I wanna know-ow-ow-ow, will you be my girl". All day long. It got to the point later on I would hear this song in my sleep. At one of their rest points they began throwing certain members in the lake, and when I inquired as to what the occasion was, this was their way of celebrating someone's first Hærvejsmarch. I dodged the question of whether this was my first march. Going back to camp soaked in my uniform did not appeal to my military bearing.

The end of the first day was marked with eating and drinking and the 'Hey baby" song is a favorite of the Danes. As well as their desire for consumption of varied sources.

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