DER ADLER
by Don Janes
November 30, 1997
Virginia Beach Virginia - November 21
The weekend finally arrived after all sorts of traumas. Originally I had planned to leave for the weekend on Thursday night but it was raining and I was dismal, depressed and down so I managed to over-indulge slightly on good old red vino and went to bed early. It was still sloppy in the morning but it started clearing up so took off just before 0800. The further south I drove the lighter it became and the more hope I had.
All of the hikes I had looked at for the weekend were in the tidewater region of Virginia. The area is bordered by the Potomac River to the north to the North Carolina state border on the south. Rivers intertwined with early American history run through that region, the James, York and Rappahannock Rivers being the major ones and of course they all terminate into the Chesapeake Bay close to Hampton and Norfolk. These rivers were the highways of commerce to the early English settler of the sixteenth and Seventeenth centuries and provided the access to the European markets to dispose of the cotton and tobacco that was the keystone of trade until the late Nineteenth Century.
It was also in this area that the British were defeated resulting in the independence of the United States, the area of most of the War of 1812 was fought and additionally the site of seventy per-cent of the major battles of the Civil War were fought. On some of the more historic highways that originally were trail some three hundred years ago there are almost as many historic signs as there are telephone poles. This area was the ancestral house to the families of George Washington and of Robert E Lee. With a certain degree of levity there seems to only have been three families, Washington, Lee and Custis. Perhaps this is where the term kissing cousins originated.
The first hike was at Warsaw, just north of Tappahannock on the south side of the Rappahanock River. Tappahannock was founded in 1608 making it one of the first towns in the area. The Rappahanock River was navigable as far inland as Fredericksburg however just west of the city is a series of rapids that precludes boats from going any further into the Piedmont region. At Fredericksburg the river is less than one hundred meters wide, by the time it reaches the town of Tappahannock the river is close to a thousand meters across and sufficiently deep to permit ocean going vessels to sail through the area.
This entire region is economically depressed with a high unemployment rate. There is little industry and those with the ambition and education leave for the larger cities further island and to the north. One sees countless abandoned farm houses caused by mechanization eliminating the requirement for field hands. Entire towns have virtually disappeared due to this; the buildings are vacant and boarded up and many have fallen into disrepair.
Warsaw is one of these towns although it is attempting to revive itself. There are two new shopping malls and hopefully this will help. The entire walk was within the town and frankly a little depressing. The annual income was very low. There is one very good restaurant in town; we ate there the last time we passed through but it was much to early this time. We settled for Eggs McMuffin.. I looked carefully to see if I recognized any one who would besmirch my reputation as an Epicurean but I didn't see anybody.
For some reason there were state police all over the place checking on speed limits. It seemed that every twenty miles there would be both a radar car and a catch car to collect revenue for the state.
The next hike was at Fort Monroe at the mouth of Hampton Roads. There have been fortifications there since the mid Sixteenth Century, both to keep out marauding privateers from the sea and marauding Indians from the land. The current structure was started in 1819 and has remained in just about the same configuration since. Just about anybody who was to lead to being a somebody was involved with the fort, the largest ever built in the United States. Robert E. Lee was one of the notable engineers of the beginning. The fort is still used; the housing in the interior is still general officers country. The casements were still in use as office space thirty years ago when I was still on active duty. I remember the doorways being so low that it was impossible to go through standing up. Fort Monroe played a major role during the Civil War and was never captured by the Confederate Forces. The artillery was enhanced significantly during WWI and WWII till it was the state of the art manning cannons that would protect the entrance of the entire Chesapeake Bay.
The hike meanders in and out of the fort, along the sea walls and generally takes a lot longer than most hikes as I get to daydreaming. The Museum is interesting and worth an hour just by itself. The view of Hampton Roads and the ship traffic one can spend an entire day there and not be bored. Norfolk, also on Hampton Roads, is the home port to many of the largest warships in the world and it must be spectacular to watch them cruise by. Every step of the hike one is treading on "hallowed" ground.
Virginia Beach Virginia - November 22
Now that it is not tourist season it is easy to find places to park "Tiny" and at no cost as well. I have used the same parking lot two nights in a row and haven't paid a dime. It is one block off the beach with easy access to the seafood restaurants and the pubs featuring micro brewed beer that I find acceptable rather than drinking the homogenized, pasteurized and de-tasted beers, especially the lite varieties, and goes well with some seafood. I contributed significantly to the depletion of oysters of the region last night. I tried both the local and those imported from the faraway land of Louisiana but I still prefer those from Brittany in France. I guess that I am a snob.
It was just a short jaunt to Norfolk and the start of the hike at the General Douglas Museum or "shrine". Most of the downtown area is under construction and this made finding the museum and parking difficult to find. We circled the area twice before we found the museum and then parking several blocks away. Adding to he confusion was the ongoing preparation for the Christmas Parade to be held this evening. I always thought that Christmas Parades held before Macy's on Thanksgiving Day should be outlawed but I guess my opinions do not amount to much.
As one might have gathered from things I have written I am not much of a downtown walker much preferring the wide open spaces. This hike was no exception to that rule for except for that portion directly on the bay with a great view of the moorage at the Norfolk Naval Base it was just buildings. I know there are people that enjoy these and under rare circumstances I do also, if there are sufficient historically significant edifices to stimulate one's interests. We all have quirks, mine are just smaller than most. The Gators have laid out a good course and the maps were easily followed. They also provided a map that showing the directions to reach the Virginia Beach events that I plan to doing tomorrow. There is extensive construction everywhere. Every Interstate is chewed up and apparently beyond repair though I know in time it will all come together. It appears the infrastructure of the region had been allowed to go to Hades in a hand basket. The temporary exits and entrances make all maps obsolete and one must feel their way through. Driving "Tiny" makes me very conscious of just how much space I have on either side and I get a little concerned with the way people drive.
It was just another short drive to Chesapeake and the walk there. This is another urban hike but it all counts in the record books. I will confess that I was envious of some of the houses seen along the way ut otherwise I didn't feel there was anything that significant. The weather was great and much warmer than I had expected. I was over dressed with a light jacket and sweat shirt. According to the brochure this area at one time was one of the largest nurseries in the United States but it is all one great big development now.
This Indian Summer is appreciated and I hope last for a few days until I finish the yard work at home. I still have to clean up tons of leaves and mulch flower beds. There is never sufficient time to do everything. I also have to clean the gutters around the eves of the house as I noticed they are packed to capacity. I do not like climbing on the roof but this is about the only way I know it can be done.
Virginia Beach has a festival of Christmas light that started tonight. The boardwalk is closed off to walkers and the city charges $7.00 a car for the drive along the beach to see all the electric displays. We didn't take "Tiny" of course nor do I think I would have driven my car had I been able to. It was amazing to see the steady stream of cars passing by from the restaurant where I nourished and fortified the inner self. Dinner was seafood again washed down with a better than average local wine. It was a great way of bringing the day to a successful close.
I think I was almost shocked by the number of teenagers on the street at 0500 in the morning, most of them obviously suffering from lack of sleep - I hope that is what was the cause - and inappropriately attired for the weather. I could almost understand this to a degree if it were summer but not in November. I guess I am just getting old and out of step with contemporary society.
Virginia Beach - November 23
The morning started when I was woke up by a group of teenagers passing through the parking lot yelling and shouting. Other than that great, the day was slightly overcast and windy but at least not raining. I wandered around for a while looking for a cup of coffee and a bite to eat. The streets were deserted except for a surfer or two headed for the "pipeline" at the inlet to the bay.
The first hike was the Rudee Inlet walk to the south end of Virginia Beach. While much of the walk is in housing areas the portion along the Rudee Inlet and the beach was attractive and it was fun watching various birds pursue fish. There was a flight of pelicans in the area and they flew overhead several times. They formed a straight line and seemed not be moving their wings at all. I hadn't realized the thermal updrafts were that strong without direct sunlight to heat the area but once in a while I am wrong. There were few boats out as the waves were very strong when I saw them earlier and of course this is not peak tourist season either. The trail crosses the front of Camp Pendleton. I had always thought the only Camp Pendleton was in California, live and learn I guess. While there was not sufficient scenery on most of the hike I will admit that it was overall very good.
The second hike started the same start point but this time went north along the beach. The view of the ocean would have been much more interesting had the weather permitted bathing suits but one cannot have everything. The waves were hitting the beach hard and the on-shore breeze was wet and cold. One walked under the static lights for the "Festival of Lights" at night. I do not believe I missed anything by not spending the $7.00 to see it. I was surprised by the number of surfers that were out. Most of the rides were of short duration because of the way the waves were breaking but they appeared to be having fun. Regretfully the weather never cleared up and became threatening by midday. This weather did not seem to have a major impact of the Virginia Beach Air National Guard; the pelicans were patrolling as usual. The hike seemed much better however after a couple of pub stops to conduct a survey of warm potables suitable for consumption. My taste buds must be deteriorating due to old age as it seems the quantities required to perform taste test seems to be expanding. I also used this as an opportunity to seek out a seafood buffet where I could pig out for the evening.
By the time this hike was completed it was time to seek shelter for the evening and provide substance for this old and tired body. I drove back over to Virginia Beach and located an Italian Restaurant that appeared to be of the old school and with a fine sounding Italian name. I wasn't disappointed as the meal was exceptional. The appetizer was a magnificent presentation - seafood antipasto that I washed down with Orvieto white wine and the broiled calamari with a side dish of linguine finished this off nicely. A couple of glasses of vermouth and an espresso made it a great night of sleep.
Home - November 24
So far the only thing that might be considered wrong about the weekend just there wasn't enough of it. Another couple of days would have been greatly appreciated. I had great expectations about getting up early - like before dawn - and get a head start on these hikes but it just didn't work that way. I meandered my way over to the Virginia Beach Hotel and Convention Center to do the one walking trail and the one bike trail. Fortunately there was ample parking across the street from the hotel as construction blocked just about everything else.
The hike headed through the housing area until it reached a park and then it was back on trails that I like. I love the natural surroundings and the chance to see wildlife and flora in itself natural state. I find that walking on natural trails are much better on the ol' bod as well. My ankles do not hurt half as much. I stopped at the visitor center on the way back and killed an hour looking at the exhibits. I did purchase a few knickknacks that I urgently needed - or thought so at the time - and now do not know where I will put them. One would not believe what we have collected over the years. The park was literally devoid of people, the only people I saw were two people out walking their dogs, turned out they were volks addicts as they were at the finish when I returned. Other than those two there was no one and I loved it.
The second hike was actually a bike trail but it looked interesting anyway. I determined that there was an alternate route back making it even better. Again most of the hike was within the park and this time along the bay side. There were fish schooling near the Narrows and stayed that way until I left the trail almost at the end of the park. While there were a few more people I was out of sight of humanity most of the time. There was one section of the trail that apparently goes under water sometimes but it was only a little soggy this time. I know that it was a long hike by the time I returned as it required me to take a practice nap before driving back home.
It sprinkled a little bit on the way but wasn't too bad. By the time I passed through Fredericksburg it was rush hour but the bulk of the traffic was southbound and no threat to me. I stopped at the Korean restaurant at the Dale City exit and ate dinner there before going home to a cold and empty house. I had turned the thermostat way down to conserve energy. It took several hours before the temperature rose to a comfortable level.
In all it was a better than average extended weekend with more than enough hiking to last me until next weekend. Next weekend I just might drive to Charleston West Virginia. I do not want to drive the I95 corridor on such a weekend. If I go to West Virginia I can use I66, I81 and I64. These do not attract as much traffic.
