| Britain End-to-End Walk Phase 2 | |
|
WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 30; SOUTH OF LAUNCETON TO NEAR MELDON; 19 miles, on A30 and old A30. I walk north on A30 around the south end of Launceston. At Lifton I get on the old A30 and peace and quiet, since all the traffic is on the new A30. Not only does the noise level drop, but also buffeting by the slipstreams of big trucks. I take the old A30 to where it ends at the new A30, a short distance from Meldon.
This is the first day warm enough for shorts and a T-shirt all day. We eat sandwiches for lunch at the Harris Arms on old A30, dating from the 16th century. In addition to farmland we have views of Dartmoor on our right, with its famous prison, and hills rising to 2,000 feet.
My left knee is a major problem, limiting me to a slow pace, with several stops to rest it. We purchase a bandage for it at a pharmacy in Okehampton. Bonny says she is astounded I can walk at all. I am too. During the day I leave Cornwall and cross the Tamar River into Devon.
THURSDAY, AUGUST 31; NEAR MELDON TO 8 MILES SOUTH OF TIVERTON; 24 miles. I walk north on A30, nominally on the following route: B3260 through the village of Okehampton (with the remains of a Norman and Saxon castle), left on B3215, right on A3072, right on A377, left on A3072 to an intersection 8 < miles south of Tiverton.
The actual route: I turn right from the first A3072 segment onto a side road at Bow, walk through Coleford; at the intersection with A377, I walk a few feet on A377 to a continuation of the side road, continue left on the side road and finally turn left on A3072 at Crediton. Side roads, although narrow, have much less traffic than A roads. Even the A roads can get very narrow, with stone walls and/or hedges on both sides rising to 10 feet.
Old houses may have thatched roofs; newer ones slate roofs, newest houses may have tile roofs. In contrast to the sometimes-ancient buildings, the farmers use the latest equipment, including state-of-the-art tractors.
I use the RICE approach on my knee: Rest (when possible!), Ice (from sympathetic B & B owners), Compression (bandage), Elevation (in the evening). It seems to help. We stay at an inn at the intersection of A3072 and A396 on the Exe River. A stone bridge over the river used by A396 was built in the 13th century. Our room has spiders on the walls, ceilings and bathtub, but we learn to coexist with them. At night we keep the window open and listen to the river.
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 1; SOUTH OF TIVERTON TO SOUTH OF TAUNTON; 26 miles. I walk north on A3072 from yesterday's stop, left on A396 to Tiverton, right on A361 (a dual carriageway) to A38, then north to near Taunton. We cross the M5 (motorway'like an interstate) twice. An accident on the M5 in Bristol, north of us, backs up traffic all day and a mess of displaced cars almost cause gridlock while trying to get through Taunton. Periodic showers, followed by a steady rain in later p.m. Tailwind part of the time is helpful.
Many people name their houses and farms. The names are often meaningful: Watersmeet, Hilltop. What is the difference between an M road and an A road with a dual carriageway? Not much. An M road is a full freeway or interstate, with limited access. In some places dual carriageways are the same. Occasionally, they have crossroads. I suspect pedestrians and bicycles are not allowed on the M roads.
Next page > Finishing the 2000 Leg > Page 1, 2, 3
Photos © Alan Cook, used with permission
